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Dirt: Adventures in Lyon as a Chef in Training, Father, and Sleuth Looking for the Secret of French Cooking-Bill Buford

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“You can almost taste the food in Bill Buford’s Dirt, an engrossing, beautifully written memoir about his life as a cook in France.” —The Wall Street JournalWhat does it take to master French cooking? This is the question that drives Bill Buford to abandon his perfectly happy life in New York City and pack up and (with a wife and three-year-old twin sons in tow) move to Lyon, the so-called gastronomic capital of France. But what was meant to be six months in a new and very foreign city turns into a wild five-year digression from normal life, as Buford apprentices at Lyon’s best boulangerie, studies at a legendary culinary school, and cooks at a storied Michelin-starred restaurant, where he discovers the exacting (and incomprehensibly punishing) rigueur of the professional kitchen. With his signature humor, sense of adventure, and masterful ability to bring an exotic and unknown world to life, Buford has written the definitive insider story of a city and its great culinary culture.

Book Dirt: Adventures in Lyon as a Chef in Training, Father, and Sleuth Looking for the Secret of French Cooking Review :



Bill Buford is a wonderful writer and this book is in many ways a pleasure to read. But my enjoyment was diminished by how cavalier he is about abandoning his wife to raise twin toddlers mostly on her own because he thinks it might be fun to work in a restaurant. There are, in fact, many wonderful restaurants in NYC where his young family lives, yet he needs to spend four days a week away from them in DC working in one? And then after he uproots them to France he thinks it will be fine to leave them for long stretches yet again? Why even have children if this is your attitude towards spending time with them? Why do this to someone who you have agreed to partner with to raise them? If this doesn't bother you, then I actually do highly recommend this book, as my objections have nothing to do with its literary quality. I almost feel bad for criticizing it for the reasons I do, although on the other hand, it's a memoir and if the author chooses to lay his life bare this way, I think it somewhat validates a critique on these levels.
Dirt is so much more than its rather zany premise. Many readers might focus on the author’s decision to leave his comfortable life as an editor at the New Yorker to plunge into training in the culinary arts in Lyons. It is easy to sympathize with his wife and twin toddlers who had their lives uprooted and discombobulated by what could be referred to as a strange whim. However, what may seem like a whim turns into years devoted to apprenticeship.But really the book has so many interesting things to say beyond the cliche of “let’s do something off the beaten path and write a memoir about it.” The book explores the relationship of France and Italy—both culinary and cultural—the peculiar role food plays in French culture, what life is like in Lyons beyond the typical romantic image of France and the changing aspect of male chauvinism in French kitchens.Ultimately, it gets at something even deeper. How food is tied up in what it means to be human. And while the theme of unnatural, processed food and its effects on this primordial relation are well known, it has rarely been plumbed better.Don’t get me wrong. There are many pages of meal creation that will delight any foodie. But the author aims at something deeper, beyond the surface descriptions of exotic French dishes and eccentric coworkers.I thought this book would be a pleasant diversion but I actually would recommend this book to anyone wanting to understand contemporary France as well as those simply with an interest in French cuisine. If nothing else, it carries an intellectual heft not common in mere diversions. Somewhat like a good restaurant it has something appetizing for every reader.

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